It's been a bit of an unusual last week!
I didn't sleep well, I could hear the swell getting bigger from the truck and it made me so excited I could only sleep for a few hours! I spent the rest of the night reading.
At dawn the waves had arrived, a 100 metre left, a small metre and no one in sight!
I waxed the longboard, Rebel fin in, and off we went!
I surfed alone for two hours, in the rain and strong offshore wind. I could feel the swell getting bigger as the morning progressed.
When I got out the biggest sets were a good 5 feet.
I ate my lunch in a hurry and went to my favourite spot. The biggest waves were a small 2m, that turned into wind beaten barrels.
I jumped in the water over-excited and had one of the best tubes of my life.
I surfed for 2h30 at a spot which was awesome! The take offs were dizzying and after that you had to accelerate to get out of the tube in time.
It was intense. Always alone, that is to say that today I surfed 4h30 on two different waves with my only company being seals and sea lions!
Tonight I'll rest and tomorrow we'll do it again! After that I will go to see Tash.
Day fifty-three: 23-12-22
I drove around a lot for nothing. I finally went back and surfed the same right of yesterday, bigger but windier. Still alone.
I had a nice barrel but for a 3 hour session it's not much!
I didn't see anyone all day.
I can assure you that sometimes it's hard to be alone.
Good waves are expected tomorrow.