Louis‘s Diary - Day 45-53
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Day forty-five: 15-12-22
Icy wake up... it's still quite nice to hear the ice cracking around the truck as the daytime heat arrives.
I took the road to North Donegal.
I didn't find any waves there but the scenery is incredible.
I went for a walk in a national park and finished my evening in the pub. I went
to bed early for an early wake up call and will continue walking tomorrow. Apparently I'm not ready to surf.
to bed early for an early wake up call and will continue walking tomorrow. Apparently I'm not ready to surf.
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Day forty-six & forty-seven: 16 & 17-12-22
I found a spot in Donegal.
It's a super wild place, with 100 metre cliffs and waterfalls flowing into the sea.
I was alone in the water, although I had a few seals around me.
Still cold as ever. I looked in the mirror and rarely have I had such dark circles. I don't feel tired, but the cold must be pulling on my heartstrings.
I spent my two evenings in the pub. Great atmosphere by the fire, drinking "hot whiskey": a mixture of whiskey and hot water, with sugar and a slice of lemon covered with cloves. The bomb!
The next day I went walking under the snow for 6 hours. It was a magical setting and no one was around. The atmosphere was mystical.
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Day forty-nine: 19-12-22
It's my birthday! And I can say that I was spoiled, for the first time in a week the sun came out and the thermometer was showing a positive number!
The waves were serious! I surfed for 3 hours under the sun, a long right hander which engages well in the take off and spits out small barrels.
There were three of us at the peak at the beginning but I soon found myself alone, it was really cool!
I obviously went to the pub afterwards. It was really nice. I sang La Marseillaise with some of the barflies and drank a lot of whiskey. Almost everyone in the bar bought me drinks.
I had quite a fall on the way back because of the ice and everything.
If you have the opportunity to spend your birthday in Ireland, don't hesitate!
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Day fifty: 20-12-22
Final day: France/Argentina! I had never seen such a good match in my life.
The atmosphere in the pub was incredible, right up until the penalty shoot-out.
The Irish are very into football and rugby. I can't wait to see the rugby world cup here.
I met a couple, the guy is Irish and the girl is Mexican.
What she likes most about Ireland is the traditional side of things that she was used to in Mexico.
I understand that. I already know most of Tash's family and I'm going to spend Christmas with them. This kind of thing never happens in France anymore.
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Day fifty-one: 21-12-22
The waves were not there today.
A big swell is supposed to arrive tomorrow (4m, 16sec, 30 knots off-shore).
I was supposed to get a job today but with the crazy conditions this week I'll wait a bit.
For once I feel like I haven't surfed enough lately.
Song of the day: Leaving Town Rome - Jo Jo Bennett

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Day fifty-two: 22-12-22
It's been a bit of an unusual last week!
I didn't sleep well, I could hear the swell getting bigger from the truck and it made me so excited I could only sleep for a few hours! I spent the rest of the night reading.
At dawn the waves had arrived, a 100 metre left, a small metre and no one in sight!
I waxed the longboard, Rebel fin in, and off we went!
I surfed alone for two hours, in the rain and strong offshore wind. I could feel the swell getting bigger as the morning progressed.
When I got out the biggest sets were a good 5 feet.
I ate my lunch in a hurry and went to my favourite spot. The biggest waves were a small 2m, that turned into wind beaten barrels.
I jumped in the water over-excited and had one of the best tubes of my life.
I surfed for 2h30 at a spot which was awesome! The take offs were dizzying and after that you had to accelerate to get out of the tube in time.
It was intense. Always alone, that is to say that today I surfed 4h30 on two different waves with my only company being seals and sea lions!
Tonight I'll rest and tomorrow we'll do it again! After that I will go to see Tash.
PURA VIDA.
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Day fifty-three: 23-12-22
I drove around a lot for nothing. I finally went back and surfed the same right of yesterday, bigger but windier. Still alone.
I had a nice barrel but for a 3 hour session it's not much!
I didn't see anyone all day.
I can assure you that sometimes it's hard to be alone.
Good waves are expected tomorrow.
Kisses
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